Pattern M, Stylish Dress Book by Yoshiko Tsukiori

An airy, breezy sweet summer dress has been made.

I've been wanting to try more dresses from Yoshiko Tsukiori's 'Stylish Dress Book Wear With Freedom' book... 

...and chose Pattern M because I thought it'd make a fun, cool, easy-to-wear summer dress for those 97 degree days.

The v-neck is low, hem is long and 'sleeves' are little ruffly things....but this dress has so much potential!

Purchased 2 1/2 yards of 100% cotton pale blue gingham with raised little white daisies, 63" wide at Joann for 50% off $14.99/yard.  Nothing, not even scraps are left over.  This dress cost $18.75 to make.  I did not add the pre-planned tatting after all. 

Many modifications were needed to make this dress wearable for me.  I traced a size 12 adding 3/8" seam allowances.  Some seams are french seams, and some seams are simply serged.  Raised the neckline @1" and redrew the neckline angle.  This dress is designed to be made with scalloped edged fabric, and as mine was not, I had to consider the neckline finish.  Fresh off making all the Ottobre Sculpture no. 10 tops with baby hems.... jumped right in and sewed baby hems on this neckline by simply turning in a mere 1/4" seam, machine stitch, then turn in again a 1/4" seam and machine stitch.  There may be a little wobble in the way the neckline lays, but not much.  Also added a 1 1/2" band around the front and back between the bodice and the skirt.  The gathers were hitting me mid-bust and wasn't sure how that would 'wear' for me, so thought adding the band would work better.  Cut the band on the bias for a little interest.  Also cut and sewed a curved hem, not straight as per pattern.  Cut 2" off length and still hemmed up 2".  Added in-seam pockets.  I *heart* pockets!  :)

You can see the neckline finish better in this photo below, as well as the band I added.

Since I seemed to be on an Ottobre roll, decided to finish the back neckline also the same as the Sculpture No. 10 tops. Cut 1" bias binding for the back neckline.  Thought I'd try to show you here a little of how Ottobre has you attach the back neckline binding.  You first finish the front neckline, then sew the back neckline binding, right sides together 1/4" seam allowance #1, below.  Then you stitch the shoulder seams, being careful not to catch, or stitch on the neckline binding #2, below.  Then you fold over the (right-side) neckline binding edge to the front shoulder seam, and stitch on that seamline #3, below.... then turn it right side out and top-stitch down..... and voila'.... the seam is enclosed with little bulk.

Like this.

Pretty proud of my neckline binding stitching here too.  Nice and even.  This cotton was a dream to work with compared to the crepe de chine, and silky prints I've been working with recently.

I dealt with the ruffly 'sleeve' a little like it looked like Carolyn did..... by treating it like a cap sleeve, only mine needed a little dart at the shoulder seam to give it more roundness.  You can see Carolyn's pretty dress here and I found examples made by other women here, here and here.

It was strange outside lighting today and my photos are a little washed out, but you can see how the sleeve fits me in the photo below.  I like this sleeve on me.  It's a little more shoulder coverage than sleeveless, and that's a good thing.

Beware, this dress is voluminous!  And I mean voluminous!!!!!  My cotton probably was a little stiffer than this pattern needs.... but oh my goodness.  After attaching the skirt to the bodice, I knew I needed some sort of tie-belt or re-make the entire skirt.... particularly the back.  Since it is already mid-August and the wearable time for this dress is realistically only a few more weeks, decided to go the quick route and add an in-seam belt that ties in the back.  Below, is where I'm trying to decide what type of belt to make..... as wide as the bodice band I added, or thin and skinny.

The thin, skinny belt was a good choice, even though you can hardly see it here!  Tames the back....

...and below you can get an idea of how blowy and breezy it is, even with the belt.  Still unsure about this silhouette on me.

This dress completes my Make a Garment a Month July 2015 plans.

Overall I like my new dress, but not sure if I will make it again.  This is a completely different style for me than I've ever worn, so that has taken a little getting used to.  The shoes helped..... a lot.  At first I was afraid it looked nightgown-ish.... but the red wedge shoes really 'make' the outfit.... to me.  Also wondering if I can shorten it a little more and that'd help?

And I was lucky to have my sweet daughter, Melissa, spend an afternoon at Lake Jocassee with me this past week.  She has been busy all summer with college classes and begins her senior year tomorrow, so I only had her to myself for a few days.  So glad she still likes to spend a little time with her mother enjoying the great outdoors!

This dress has been planned since June.  Temps have consistently been 97 degrees since mid-May..... through June AND July, which is most unusual for this area of South Carolina.  August is usually our 97 degree month.  The dress is done..... our temps have hovered around 82 degrees since the first of August..... every.... day..... with today raining and cool.  NOT the weather I'd made this dress for.  *sigh*   At least it will be ready to wear and (feel like new!) for NEXT summer.  :)